After living in the world’s third largest city for a month, we decided it was time to get out of the Seoul area and explore a different part of the ROK. We like beaches (something Korea has plenty of), so we did a little research and settled on a weekend trip to the coastal city of Sokcho. We recruited our friends Rob and Mheena to join us, booked a hotel, and headed off on Friday afternoon.
Now Sokcho is on the opposite side of the country, and neither of us have a car, but in Korea that’s not a problem. We did it all by public transportation and it was easy, quick, and stress-free. Empowered with our newly acquired smart phones, we were able to figure out where to catch the bus (two blocks north of school), which subway line to take (the red line at Jeongia), which transfers to make (get on the east-bound green line at Gangnam), and which exit out of the station to get to the express bus terminal (important since every Seoul subway station has an underground mall and about a dozen exits). The trip from school to the express bus terminal took less than an hour, and cost less than $4. The express bus to Sokcho cost a whopping $17, and got us to the beach in just over two hours. It couldn't have been easier.
On the express bus and ready to roll
Sokcho isn’t that different from beach towns in America: seafood restaurants, a few thrill rides, arcades, teenagers with fireworks, and adults in outdoor bars. Of course, this is Korea, so a few things were different. There were aquariums outside of almost every establishment with things like giant crabs, groupers, and things you just can’t recognize. Apparently the Korean people like their seafood fresh, and fresh means living and breathing right up until it’s on your plate. That is of course unless it is dried. Everywhere we looked there was dried squid, dried octopus, dried fish, and dried don’t ask.
A typical resaurant sign in Sokcho - this here invertebrate can't wait to get eaten
We spent the night in the slightly shabby, but quaint Hotel Goodmorning, but the morning wasn’t as good as is could have been. The reason? Although Korea has about five times as many coffee shops per block than Seattle, and although those shops stay open until midnight, they don’t open until 10 AM! Though devastated at the bleak prospect of a caffineless morning, we decided to make the best of it and took a stroll down the beach.
One of the dolphin statues on Sokcho beach - someone put glasses on him
Love and beaches - the same in any language
Afterwards, we looks for a place to eat breakfast and discovered a pattern. Yep, got to wait for that too! However, being determined, we found a GS 25 (a chain of tiny convenience store found on every block in this country) and enjoyed a shrink-wrapped bulgolgi, rice, and seaweed snack, boiled eggs, and bananas. Just like home! Then, while waiting for the bus, we found ourselves outside a coffee shop. We asked what time he opened and he asked us (in English!) what time did we want him to open? We told him that 8 would be great and he agreed to open his doors for us early on Sunday. You see, that’s just how nice most Koreans are – seriously.
Then it was off to Seoraksan – the jewel in the crown of Korea’s national park system – known for its stunning granite peaks, cliffs, and waterfalls. Once again, it was public transportation that took us 20 miles from the seaside town of Sokcho to the igneous bastion of Seoraksan – for the low, low price of…well the driver had a hell of a time getting us to understand that it was 1,200 Won each (that’s about $1.20). Honestly, I don’t know why anyone in this country ever bothers to buy a car - but they do, read my next entry about the ride home.
What can I say about Seoraksan? Stunning? Check.
Scenic? Check.
Filled with ancient Buddhist culture? Check.
A James Bond style cable car that takes you to the summit? Check. (how could it be otherwise?)
Thousands upon thousands of enthusiastic Koreans eager to visit their version of Yosemite? Check.
Crazy trails with suspension bridges, stairs bolted into towering cliffs, and gorgeous waterfalls? Check,
check,
and check!
Fortunately it was only the cable car part that was insanely crowded. The rest was quite reasonable.'t
Afterwards we took the bus back to Sokcho, and once again there was a problem figuring out how much we were supposed to pay. Fortunately this isn't a problem back at home, since Seoul Metro system uses an integrated, reloadable "Pop card" that gets you onto the bus, the subway, taxis, and can even be used to pick up a bottle of soju at the GS 25.
We finished off the night with Korean barbeque and beers on the beach while we watched families shoot off fireworks with their kids.
Next time I'll tell you about our adventures at the temple on Sunday, but for now, just know that no matter how much fun we're having, we still miss you all and think about you every day. Please email!
